Pigmentation & Brightening
Licorice Root Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract / Glabridin / Liquiritin
Licorice root is one of those ingredients that sounds soft but has real pigment and inflammation pathways behind it. The issue is that “licorice extract” can mean many different things depending on the formula.
Typical Concentration
Varies; look for standardised glabridin/liquiritin when possible
Best Used
PIH, Melasma, Rosacea
Photosensitising
No
Pregnancy Safe
Yes
Results Timeline
8-12 weeks
Moxie's Take
"I haven't tried licorice root extract on its own. My hesitation isn't the evidence, which is moderate - it's standardisation: extract strength and actual glabridin content vary a lot between products, which makes it hard to know what you're really getting."
Start Here
First, try this if
Sensitive, redness-prone, PIH-prone skin looking for low-irritation support.
Don't expect
Results build gradually, not overnight — realistic timeline is 8-12 weeks.
What It Is
Licorice root extract sounds like a soft, throwaway botanical, but compounds like glabridin and liquiritin genuinely act on pigment and inflammation — the catch is that "licorice extract" on a label can mean very different strengths and fractions from product to product.
Its useful compounds include glabridin, liquiritin, and other flavonoids, but cosmetic labels do not always tell you which fraction is used or at what strength.
How It Works
Glabridin can inhibit tyrosinase activity and reduce UVB-induced pigmentation pathways in experimental models. Liquiritin may help disperse existing melanin. The extract also has anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it relevant when pigment is driven by acne or irritation.
The Evidence
Evidence is promising but variable because extracts are not standardised across products. Best positioned as a supportive ingredient in a brightening or calming formula, not a hero active for severe melasma.
A single-center, double-blind clinical study of 18 subjects found a hydroquinone-free formula containing glabridin (licorice's active compound) significantly reduced UV-induced hyperpigmentation versus both a negative control and 4% hydroquinone cream.
View source →Reviewed by Moxie — last checked July 2026
How to Use
Tips
Use once or twice daily. Works well in multi-brightener serums with niacinamide, TXA, panthenol, or centella. Patch test is worth doing since botanical extracts can trigger allergy in a way synthetic actives don't, especially on rosacea-prone skin.
It's gentle enough to introduce alongside a calming routine without much staging, unlike acids or retinoids. SPF still matters because licorice root is used for pigment support, and unprotected sun exposure undermines any brightening it offers.
There isn't a defined overuse pattern for licorice root specifically; the main risk is a botanical allergic reaction, so any new irritation warrants stopping and patch-testing again.
Who It Suits
Works Well For
Sensitive, redness-prone, PIH-prone skin looking for low-irritation support.
Use With Caution If
Botanical allergy is possible. Patch test, especially with rosacea.
Darker Skin Tones (Fitzpatrick IV–VI)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) risk is higher for darker skin tones with active ingredients, heat- or light-based devices, and any procedure that causes inflammation. This does not mean avoid — it means patch test, go slower, and confirm your provider has real experience treating Fitzpatrick IV–VI skin before an energy-based or ablative treatment.
Specific To This Ingredient
For Fitzpatrick III-VI, irritation control matters. Any ingredient that causes inflammation can worsen PIH, even if it is marketed as brightening or anti-aging.
Pregnancy Note
Consult doctor if pregnant/nursing
Prescription Note
Not applicable — this ingredient is not prescription-only. Availability and permitted strengths can still vary by market.
Combine and Avoid
Concerns Addressed
Frequently Asked Questions
Does licorice root extract help with melasma?
It's promising but variable — compounds like glabridin can inhibit pigment-producing pathways in studies, but because extracts aren't standardised across products, it's best treated as supportive rather than a hero active for severe melasma.
Is licorice root extract gentle enough for sensitive skin?
Generally yes, it's positioned as a soothing, low-irritation brightener, though botanical allergy is still possible, so patch testing is worth it on rosacea-prone skin.
What does licorice root extract actually do?
Its glabridin content may inhibit tyrosinase and reduce UVB-induced pigmentation, while liquiritin may help disperse existing melanin — plus it has anti-inflammatory properties relevant to acne- or irritation-driven pigment.
The Verdict
Not For Me
Useful support, not the main event.
Moxie Ratings
Not medical advice. Content is based on personal experience and published research. Always consult a qualified dermatologist before starting any new treatment or regimen.
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